Framing with CFV cropping factor How
- Thread starter macmx
- Start date
peterbkk
New Member
Well, with only 24 hours of CFV experience under my belt, I am probably not the best person to give advice on this matter... but that never stopped me in the past ...
Included with the CFV comes a new focus screen with very dark lines showing the edge of the sensor. It is very obvious what will be in the image and what will be outside of it.
So, you can frame the image very easily but you also have about a centimetre of the focus screen outside the image area which might be useful in some circumstances (e.g. incoming movement).
As a wearer of spectacles, I actually find this new "CFV-etched" focus screen to be quite helpful. As the glasses keep my eye back from the viewfinder window, I used to have to move around a bit to see all the edges. Now, with my glasses firmly up against the rubbber eye-cup, the dark line showing the edge of the image is clearly visible from the central eye position.
Regards
Peter
Included with the CFV comes a new focus screen with very dark lines showing the edge of the sensor. It is very obvious what will be in the image and what will be outside of it.
So, you can frame the image very easily but you also have about a centimetre of the focus screen outside the image area which might be useful in some circumstances (e.g. incoming movement).
As a wearer of spectacles, I actually find this new "CFV-etched" focus screen to be quite helpful. As the glasses keep my eye back from the viewfinder window, I used to have to move around a bit to see all the edges. Now, with my glasses firmly up against the rubbber eye-cup, the dark line showing the edge of the image is clearly visible from the central eye position.
Regards
Peter
If the lines are not clear enough, or the extra bit outside the lines confusing, you can put bits of opaque tape over it.
But only when you're not using a prism with meter.
And be careful when removing the tape, or rather the residue of glue: whatever you will use to do that, do not let it get into the frame and between the screen parts.
But only when you're not using a prism with meter.
And be careful when removing the tape, or rather the residue of glue: whatever you will use to do that, do not let it get into the frame and between the screen parts.
Very easy to see the area being captured with the included screen. The remaining area does indeed aid in seeing action just about to enter the frame ... very much like using a Leica M Rangefinder with it's superimposed viewfinder framing lines for many lenses.
For those who have used a Hasselblad for decades, it'll take a little time to switch your "intuitive" framing over to keeping the action with-in the clearly marked frame lines. It's not an issue when shooting at a leisurely pace or on a tripod, but when doing things like faster paced candid wedding work you have to pay attention for the first couple of times. The wierd thing is that when you pop off the CFV back and replace it with a film back you have to remember to use the whole screen : -)
For those who have used a Hasselblad for decades, it'll take a little time to switch your "intuitive" framing over to keeping the action with-in the clearly marked frame lines. It's not an issue when shooting at a leisurely pace or on a tripod, but when doing things like faster paced candid wedding work you have to pay attention for the first couple of times. The wierd thing is that when you pop off the CFV back and replace it with a film back you have to remember to use the whole screen : -)
jotloob
MFF-Patron
Peter
The DPS hood is a HASSELBLAD product . The number is 3072534 ,
Unfortunately this hood is not produced any more . It has a magnification of 5.5 and you can add a diopter according your eyesight (far distance) .
I got mine from RobertWhite in England . They might still have one , because the DPS hood is still in their product list .
Good prices , good service and fast shipping .
Yes , Marc
True enough , when disconnecting the CFV and then using a film back , you must not forget , then to use the whole screen . If you have used a DPS hood with your CFV back , then you also have to replace the hood and that makes it easier to remember .
For me , the DPS hood is a great help .
The DPS hood is a HASSELBLAD product . The number is 3072534 ,
Unfortunately this hood is not produced any more . It has a magnification of 5.5 and you can add a diopter according your eyesight (far distance) .
I got mine from RobertWhite in England . They might still have one , because the DPS hood is still in their product list .
Good prices , good service and fast shipping .
Yes , Marc
True enough , when disconnecting the CFV and then using a film back , you must not forget , then to use the whole screen . If you have used a DPS hood with your CFV back , then you also have to replace the hood and that makes it easier to remember .
For me , the DPS hood is a great help .
peterbkk
New Member
Jurgen,
B&H claim to have a DPS in stock:
But I am afraid that I am so addicted to my 45-degree prism viewfinder that I would struggle with the reversed framing and downward-viewing angle of the DPS. But I bet you get sharp focusing with one of those devices.
Regards
Peter
B&H claim to have a DPS in stock:
But I am afraid that I am so addicted to my 45-degree prism viewfinder that I would struggle with the reversed framing and downward-viewing angle of the DPS. But I bet you get sharp focusing with one of those devices.
Regards
Peter
I use flip magnifiers on all my V cameras with 45 degree finders. Indispensable IMO.
Q.G. it really isn't all that difficult to get used to the framing lines any more than it is in a rangefinder camera. Just something to initially pay attention to ... then it becomes second nature even in hectic shooting situation like a wedding. I don't even think about it any more, and I swap back and forth between the CFV and film backs all the time.
Q.G. it really isn't all that difficult to get used to the framing lines any more than it is in a rangefinder camera. Just something to initially pay attention to ... then it becomes second nature even in hectic shooting situation like a wedding. I don't even think about it any more, and I swap back and forth between the CFV and film backs all the time.
christian_r
New Member
Hi everyone
Isn't there any prism, 45 degree, with magnification, that will fit the cwd?
I think it's hard focusing with the pme90, to small view, and I can't get used to the waist finder, being reverse.
Isn't there any prism, 45 degree, with magnification, that will fit the cwd?
I think it's hard focusing with the pme90, to small view, and I can't get used to the waist finder, being reverse.
meir_pluznik
New Member
What I have done is, drew on the Adobe Indesign the outline of the frame in CFV and blacken the outside the frame (a bit) and drew also 8x10 cropline and grided cropline for 5x7 in vertical and horizontal position.
I print out the artwork and took overhead clear plastic sheet and copy it. After that I cut the plastic to fit the focusing screen housing before I put the PM prism. work like charm.
Meir
I print out the artwork and took overhead clear plastic sheet and copy it. After that I cut the plastic to fit the focusing screen housing before I put the PM prism. work like charm.
Meir
christian_r
New Member
Sounds lika a plan.
But does the PM prism have any magnification?
But does the PM prism have any magnification?
meir_pluznik
New Member
ANy PM will show u full frame (the whole focusing screen) 2.5 or 3X. after a while u get used to the center and ingnore arounding the outside of the CFV crop. it is nice to see where my 8x10 and 5x7 crop goes inside the CFV square crop. Generally no problem with any PM prisms.
sorry, my english is not good, so forgive me.
Meir
sorry, my english is not good, so forgive me.
Meir
christian_r
New Member
The thing is that I really don't want to se outside of the actual frame. So what options do I have?