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The magazine you have probably isn't an "A" type. Does it have a folding (!) crank on the side where the frame counter is?
If so, it's an A12, and a current manual will contain all the info.
If not, you have the precursor of the "A"utomatic magazine.
The main difference is that there is no automatic stop at the first frame when loading the magazine with film.
Instead, you have to inspect the numbers on thge backing paper through the "peep hole" on the back of the magazine (lift the lid, and you can see right through to the backing paper of the film).
The way to load the magazine is:
1) take out the insert and place the empty take up spool on the side with the knurled knob on the spool retaining arm. (all this is in the manual for the "A"-type magazines too)
2) place the film on the other side. Make sure it unwinds the right way round: the loose end should be "between" roll and insert.
3) pull the leader across the pressure plate, edge underneath the metal cl& on one side, and attach it to the take up spool.
And here's where things get different from the "A"-type procedure.
4) When the film is attached to the take up spool, you skip the part in which you align the marker on the film with a marker on the film spool holder. Instead, just insert the insert into the shell, and lock it.
5) Next you open the "peep hole", and using the wind key on the frame counter side, slowly wind the film until, turning the key clockwise, you see the number "1" appear.
6) When you do, stop winding, close the "peep hole", and turn the wind key counterclockwise until the number "1" appears in the frame counter window.
7) fold the wind key flat, and you're ready to take pictures.
Make sure that either you have the magazine on the camera, or have the dark slide inserted when loading the film.
After 12 exposures, the magazine will "block" the camera. When it does, check that you realy have exposed 12 frames, and not just left the dark slide in... ;-)
You then unfold the wind key again, and wind it clockwise until you either here the sound of the film releasing from the film spool, or feel the change in resistance that occurs when that happens. Perhaps you could have a peep through the "peep hole"? ;-)
Next take out the insert, etc.
You may like to know the key to deciphering Hasselblad date codes.
They use the "magic" word "VHPICTURES". Easy to remember: it's "VH" for Victor Hasselblad, the man behind the camera, and "PICTURES" as in the things they produce.
Victor Hasselblad "stole" the magic word idea from Kodak, who were using "CAMEROSITY" as their word.
Anyway, remember "VHPICTURES".
You'll notice this word has 10 letters. So place the numbers 1 -9 and 0 underneath, and you'll get the mapping V=1, H=2, ..., S=0.
So the year TP stands for is( T=6, P=3): 63.
You will have to figure out what century to add yourself. ;-)
The same code is used on camera bodies, some prism finders and other assorted accessories.
The very early Kodak lenses can be dated the same way, usingthe "CAMEROSITY" magic word.
You can't use it to date the Carl Zeiss lenses. How to find out when they were made is another long, and somewhat speculative story.