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Uh oh, Broken screen - fix or replace?

Hi guys. I just broke the glass part of my older Accute Matte D screen. I'm wondering if it is worth while to have it fixed, or just replace it?
I got some cleaning fluid between the fresnel lens and the glass backing last night. When it didn't dry on its own, I (stupidly) took the thing apart, to clean and dry it. No problem. But as I was attempting to put the rig back together, the glass backing broke. What an idiot!!
I do have the new CFV screen, but don't want to use it since it has all that garbage in the middle (split screen & microprism).
So I need to look into a new or used plain Accute Matte D screen like the one I just broke if it would not be financially feasible to repair this one.
Thanks for your input.
Paul - I remember you just writing that "plain" screens are rare. My broken screen has cross hairs in the center, but that's all. Isn't this pretty standard? I find the cross hairs to be extremely valuable for horizontal or vertical placements in the scene.
Michael H. Cothran


New Member
Hello Michael,

I am sorry I cannot bent the rules. What you did is not very smart and means a heavy penalty.
On the other hand lots of people do not read the instruction manual for a simple thing like a focussing screen.

The ones that take a few minutes will read the following warning:
Do not immerse the screen in water or use any kind of cleaning fluid.
Do not use hot air to dry the screen if it becomes damp.

The fresnel part is made of a substance that is not resistant to water.
I recently warned a user of a 1000F camera not to fit this part to his camera.
The 1000F does not leave enough room to fit the glas cover over the fresnel part so
this part is likely to be damaged by a sudden splash of rain.

I would not bother to try to restore the damaged Acute Matte.
If you look for a used one the partnumber for the early one with cross hairs is: 42165
The current "D" screen with just cross hairs is 42204

The plain one I mentioned is not an Acute Matte but the opto fiber screen.
As far as I know it was only available for one year. Partnumber is 42221.
Prices for screens vary quite a lot around the world.
In Germany the current retail price is over 500 USD that includes 19 % salestax.



Active Member
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Ouch... expensive mistake.. Repairing is as far as I know not an option, it means replacing the whole thing.

A plain non-D Acute Matte sets you back around EUR 100 here (on the used aka pre-owned market that is). The 'plainest' AM indeed has a very fine X-hair in the center. Or more accurately, it looks more like a + - hair.

I have an AM-D in my 500C/M backup camera, and an AM in another 500C/M. To me there is no difference that I can discover.

Paul - I amaze myself at all the stupid things I do at times. However the damage is done, so I can only move on. I did find a handful of screens on Ebay, with a couple of 42165's in the $150-$200 USD range.
Questions -
1. What is the difference between the D version and the non D?
2. I note on my broken screen that there are two half-holes cut out the the aluminum frame molding, which is also the same for my new CFV screen. I don't see these markings on the Ebay screens.
Do these markings indicate a D version by chance?
Michael H. Cothran
Paul (and others) -
Please accept my apology for calling the split-screen/microprism "garbage." To a lot of folks, they are necessary and welcomed. As I stated, they annoy me, and are always in my way. Unintentionally though, I think I insulted those people who do use and prefer these focusing aids. That was not my intention.
Michael H. Cothran
Well, I'm $170 poorer, but I just bought a mint 42204 Acute Matte D screen on Ebay, with case, box, and manual. Thanks Paul for the heads-up on the model numbers. I did note that the screen I just bought has the two half holes I inquired about before, so I presume these must designate the D version.
It's a shame I didn't have the manual on my older one - it could have saved me $170.
For what it's worth - I do read manuals, including my new 81 page CFV manual. At the time last night, I had not gotten to the focusing screen section yet.
Michael H. Cothran


New Member
No need to apologise:
Screens are a very personal thing, what brushes are to a painter, welding material for a welder, are screens for a photographer. End of discussion.

The two little cut outs mean the screen is from the later "D" generation.
Your hunch is correct, that is the way to distinguish them.
Next question is of course what is the difference?
I have not found a difference between the early and the later Acute Matte screens nor have I heard any official explanation from Hasselblad what has been improved with the "D" version.

Focussing screens are things to be handled with care meaning be aware what you are buying.
Make sure if it is not the D version that the cross haires are real thin.
If they appear thick and black, applied like a screen method chances are you are bidding on an early screen that is not bright like an Acute Matte.

I have no idea what the list price is for a screen in the US.
200 USD for an early 42165 screen seems a bit stiff to me.
I think that should get you a near mint D screen.
List price in Europe now varies from 300 USD to 450 USD for a new 42204.
That includes about 20% sales tax.
Strangely the Hasselblad distributor in Germany advises a list price that is
60% over the Hasselblad pricelist for end users.
Check all the ususal suspects in the US to get some idea of both prices for new and used screens.



New Member

It is an expansive lesson that you could not even have learned because the manual was missing.
I am sure you got a good screen at a very decent price.

So apply those lines to mark the image recorded with the CFV back once again and enjoy the new back.